Piers

Editor

The British capital is packed with Polish success

Words Marie cleland

It’s lunchtime, and on a busy road in the London suburb of Hackney, Polsmak deli is doing a roaring trade. And not all the customers are Poles. “it’s about 50/50,” says owner inga Wojciechowska. A young woman orders a freshly made sandwich, an older gent eyes up the shelves of confectionary, and a father and his son select a jar of pickles from the fridge. “We have non-Polish visitors who are making dinner for friends and asking for Polish recipes,” says inga. “And many people who have travelled to Poland come in and say, ‘i’ve been to Krakow and i tried this… how do i make it?’” the deli (39 Ball’s Pond road, n1, www.polsmak.co.uk) recently delivered traditional cakes to the London office of French telecom.

Polski sklep. dobry smak. tyskie Gronie. they’re words that have been popping up more and more in London, on shop fronts and in bars – the first two phrases meaning “Polish food” and “good taste” and the last being Poland’s biggest beer brand. As the number of Polish people coming to work and live in the British capital has dramatically increased since Poland joined the european Union in 2004, so too has the number of delis and restaurants popping up in boroughs from Hackney to Hammersmith.

While there has been a Polish community in London since the 19th century, the difference now is that young people are coming over, settling in neighbourhoods across London, not just the traditional enclaves in the west of the city, and there’s more of a cultural exchange going on.

Elisa Jurek romans, originally from Łodź, lives an hour’s drive from the capital in reading. She would “still go to a Polish shop for Polish bread even if it was 50 miles away – you can’t beat Polish bread and Polish meat”. However, she now has more non-Polish friends than Polish.

Polish Londoners also highlight another success story. When asking around they say that best bread in the city comes from a family firm called the Polish Bakery. it’s popularity stems largely from sourced Polish ingredients and traditional receipes and the bakery is famous for Polish traditional pączki (doughnuts) and drożdżówki (pastries). it’s a brand now recognised all over the UK.

Non-Poles are getting so into Polish culture in London that you can now find dumplings (pierogi) on the menu in non-Polish restaurants, and drink a plethora of Polish vodkas in a bar owned by an Australian. John clark opened na zdrowie (11 Little turnstile, Holborn, Wc1), or “to your health”, because his Polish friends bemoaned the lack of a decent Polish bar in the capital. now his bar attracts a range of nationalities.

But Poles are also great musicians, artists and designers, and many are now making their mark on the British capital. Musician Adam Ficek (of Pete doherty’s Babyshambles) has Polish heritage. the director of the renowned Whitechapel Gallery, iwona Blazwick, also has Polish origins. they recently contributed to an exhibition at the Museum of London, London creatives: Polish roots, which showcased portraits of Polish Londoners who have excelled in the arts.

The exhibition was put together by the London Polish cultural institute (www.. polishculture.org.uk). deputy director Anna tryc-Bromley says there is far more interest in Polish culture now than there has been in the recent past. “this is certainly a result of the hard-earned momentum generated by ‘creative modern nomads’, both from the UK and Poland, who are exchanging ideas and cooperatively building new projects.” Anna says Poland’s joining the eU has freed up movement between the two countries, and that low-cost airlines have made it much easier to organise cross-country exhibitions.

One high profile company finding commercial success in the capital is olimp Laboratories, under the patronage of one of the world’s strongest men and mixed martial arts champion, Mariusz Pudzianowski, himself a Pole. the company’s range of drinks, muesli bars and protein supplements is proving a huge hit with London’s Polish communities.

Some were quicker then others to establish themselves here in the city. Wojciech Kulis spotted a gap in the market place in London over 10 years ago and set his company, Voitex Ltd (www.voitex.co.uk) specialising in hand-crafted bespoke fitted furniture. Working closely with the city’s homeowners, architects, interior designers and developers enables the business is able to offer a one-off, tailored service that has flourished.

So why should non-Polish people be interested? “Poland has always been at the avant-garde of culture in europe,” says Anna. “its flavour is distinctly non-conformist, producing aesthetic, edgy content.” At the forefront of edgy offerings is the contemporary music scene. While Poland’s classical roots go way back, there’s a growing audience in Britain for Polish sounds with a modern flavour. Last year, Fertilizer Festival (www.fertilizerfestival.com) focused on Poland. Says organiser Polly eldridge: “they have a really strong jazz scene – they have since the ’60s – but the current generation are taking in their own influences, whether it’s hip hop or thrash metal. they’re really making it their own.

“What makes Polish music so interesting is that it’s completely grass roots – it’s an emerging market.” Amongst the “Good S*** from Poland” on offer, electronica from Jacaszek proved a big hit, and Sing Sing Penelope wowed the crowds at cargo in Shoreditch with their fusion of post-punk, free jazz, modern rock and poetry.

Fans of contemporary art have also been treated to a plethora of Polish work in London recently. “right now in Britain, in the three most important places in terms of visual arts – tate Modern, Whitechapel Gallery and the Barbican – we have Polish artists,” says roland chojnacki, director of the Polish cultural institute. “We’ve never had such a presence before.” Why now, and why London? Four years ago the Polish government decided to instigate a year of Polish events in the UK.

Polska! Year eventually kicked off in May 2009, organised by the Warsaw-based Adam Mickiewicz institute. When coordinator Aneta Prasał-Wiśniewska contacted museum and galleries in the UK, she was surprised at just how much interest there was. “everybody said, ‘Yes, we are very interested – there are a lot of Polish people here. if we do something Polish, we know it will bring some of these people to our venues.’

“I think the presence of Poles [in Britain] has already changed people’s perception of Poland,” says Aneta. “Most of the Poles that are here have a good reputation – they are hard-working, intelligent, nice people. through Polska! Year we wanted to explain that there is more – there is high culture.”

Highlights of the programme included Symbolist Art in Poland at tate Britain, and an exhibition of work by visual artist robert Kusmirowski at the Barbican, called Bunker, that one renowned art critic termed “a 21st-century masterpiece”. this year, with more Poles coming over to London, and with them fresh talent, who knows what exciting things Polish culture has in store for the capital.

“I wanted to find out more about Poles living in London. So it was great to discover such a rich cultural life relevant to both Polish immigrants and non-Polish residents.”

Rock bands eat your heart out – it’s the Guča annual trumpet festival in Serbia

Words Martin Pashley

Every august the tiny Serbian village of Guča, around three hours’ drive west of belgrade, hosts what’s been variously described as “the most riotous festival on earth” and “the rio carnival of the balkans”. but you won’t find any big-name rock acts of the kind seen at Glastonbury, roskilde, or even avant-garde art statements such as burning Man in Nevada. No, what draws over half a million people to this far flung corner of Serbia for three days are the brass bands and trumpeters who are battling it out for the ultimate accolade of the coveted ‘Golden trumpet’.

The first Guča Festival (or dragačevo assembly of trumpet Players, as it is officially known) took place back in 1961. envisaged as a way to celebrate the Serbs’ love of brass instruments, bands or orchestras – often from a romany Gypsy background – would travel to the village and face off in a series of heats before a winner was proclaimed.

But what started out as a relatively low-key event has mainlined into a vein of the Serb psyche that now sees hundreds of thousands descend on Guča to watch over 20 bands competing for prizes, drink over one million litres of beer and eat container loads of traditionally prepared meat. “the biggest miracle is that we can get all these people safely into and out of a village which is normally home to only 3000 people,” marvels organiser adam tadic.

in most of europe the thought of spending a weekend at a brass band festival would have the under-60s running for the hills. but for Serbs, Guča has become an almost mystical place for both young and old.

“there’s an amazing atmosphere at Guča,” enthuses Marija, a fitness instructor. “One that’s uniquely Serbian, but very welcoming. it’s not cool or trendy but once the bands start up it gets wild, very wild”. She adds, laughing, “Of course, it is also a place to drink beer and eat, perhaps a little too much.” but what if you’re not a great fan of trumpets? “Just one day at Guča, and you will be. You won’t be able to help it!”

One of the all-time legends of Guča is boban Marković, who fronts the boban Marković Orchestra. boban, who has been described as the Jimi Hendrix of the trumpet, retired from competing at Guča because he was, well, simply too good – in 2001 he got the maximum possible marks. “i love playing here,” he says. “the competition is intense and the musicianship incredible – trumpet playing at its best. it’s something you have to see.” and the appeal is widening – this year’s festival sees bands from France, Poland and israel coming to the village to cross brass with the locals. there’s also an open invite for Prime Minister Putin and President Obama to come visit, the organisers believing that a couple of days drinking brandy and eating traditional Serb, while listening to the brass go wild, will do more to further international relations than any conference at the UN “it’s a place to meet new friends,” explains Marija. “People relax at Guča, there’s no tension. there’s just the party, the food and the trumpets. What more could you want?” Guča Festival runs 13-22 august, beginning to peak from the 19th. www.Gu.asabor.com

Belgrade must dos:

Ada ciganlija

When temperatures rise beogradians head for the artificial lake and beaches on this peninsula jutting out into the river Sava. Known locally as the ‘belgrade Sea’, activities include water skiing, bungee jumping and roller-skating. but perhaps the best way to pass the time is people watching, as on hot days it feels as if the whole city has decided to put on its swimmwear and pay a visit.

Get there: bus lines 23, 37, 51, 52, 53, 56, 57, 58, 88, 89, 91, 92, 511 and 551 all pass close to ada ciganlija.

Belgrade beer Festival

18-22 august Now in its seventh year, the belgrade beer Festival in Usce Park has become the choice of those seeking something more adventurous and less crowded than Munich’s Oktoberfest. there are over 70 beer brands to sample and to help the smooth the passage of the “precious liquid” the organisers will be putting on more than 300 free concerts. www.belgradebeerfest.com Get there: Head towards the meeting of the danube and Sava river.

Visit a Splav bar

Splav bars (meaning literally ‘raft bars’) began springing up on the danube and Sava rivers in the early 1970s. Now a local institution, these barge-like boats range from fairly sedate restaurants to the sort of hedonistic nightclubs only seen in big budget movies. entrance is usually free.

Shop at Otc Novi Beograd

This open-air flea market (or buvljak in Serbian) sells everything from used ladders to the latest in italian designer jeans. Was (in)famous for one stall that sold iKea products, even though the nearest store was over 500 miles away.

Get there: Just down the road from the delta city mall, Jurija Gagarina street, Novi beograd.

Head to the Kalemegdan at sunset

Perched high overlooking New belgrade, this large park in the Stari Grad with its fortress (originally built by the romans) pavilions, and numerous statues is like walking through a history of the city and Serbia itself. For spectacular views, head towards the northern side at dusk and watch as the sun melts into the Sava and danube rivers.

Get there: easily walkable from downtown belgrade or take tram 2.

Words & Photos Xav Judd

The man from Milan’s expanding wine notes lets the drink do the talking

When i first hear of ‘Talking Wine’ (Vino Parlante), i assume somebody’s having a joke at my expense. Then i meet Christian Fabrizio, the Milanese maestro behind this innovative concept. He’s a man who’s as passionate about wine as most of his countrymen are about football (and notably more successful, if you’re talking about the current national team).

“i originally became interested in wine 20 years ago, when i read biology at the University of Milan,” relates Christian. “My course involved a lot of agronomy [the science and technology of using plants for food, feed, fibre and fuel] and i specialised in the genetics of plants.” A decade later, when his country renewed its fascination with its native grapes – it has over 500 varieties – Christian began to arrange events where he expounded on the beverage produced from the fermentation of this pipsqueak-sized fruit. “it was important for me not to conduct some kind of boring seminar, but to tell the story of wine simply, without jargon, in an entertaining way,” he explains.   it’s no surprise that Christian chose to locate this business in italy’s second most populous (1.3 million) town. Milan is also an industrial powerhouse. its imposing office blocks, swanky fashion enclaves and quaint piazzas were the perfect backdrop for him to spread the gospel, first to companies in the alcohol sector, and then to those less specialised, such as multinational General Electric.

“After a while, i realised that most people were very curious to know more about the nature of what they were drinking, so i came up with the idea of putting more information on the labels,” enthuses Christian. “The profile of the region the wine comes from and of its producer; how it’s made, the vintage and food it’s most suitable to eat with,” he elaborates. And this connoisseur reasoned it was better to stick these type of details on the back of the bottles, rather than the front, so as not to detract from the branding of the product. We’re not talking just a one-line summary, but an expanding label worthy of Dorley Kindersley, read with increasingly glazed eyes as the bottle empties, or perhaps with an authorative air while a lover watches on admiringly.

However, before Christian launched this new enterprise in 2007, he carried out extensive in-depth research. Two partners were hired in his quest to develop an effective and comprehensive business model. Firstly, a consultant group from the University of Milan, to pen the technical parts of the wine label. Secondly, an association connected with one of the nation’s foremost gastronomes – the late Luigi Veronelli – which helped with the simplification, style and overall homogeneity of his dream.

With such a unique idea, it’s no surprise that Talking Wine received as much attention as an octogenarian billionaire with heart trouble at a golddiggers’ convention. Both traditional and new producers have flocked to Christian. Some of these families have had wineries for hundreds of years, in parts of italy that sell postcards by the millions – just imagine the sweeping sun-drenched hills of Umbria or Tuscany.

Having started with 22 producers, Christian now has over 60. Nonetheless, he’s not peddling some sort of bootleg booze, so is particularly choosy about who gets one of his descriptive labels. “They have to agree with my philosophy of production, so that we can guarantee to consumers that each wine we associate with is a good expression of the grape,” he avows. “in essence, i want to pick the vineyards that have the best grape for each region. For example, for the Sangiovese variety, we want to ensure we have a Chianti or Brunello di Montalcino to-die-for,” he explains. With ever-growing success, this winemeister has now branched out, thus he also acts as a distributor selling directly to shops, restaurants and bars.

So it looks like everybody in italy’s going to be drinking a lot more wine in the future, if Christian gets his way. www.autoctono.it

Zoo and Botanical Gardens

Long before the arrival of Krakow zoo, 15th-century Polish kings kept lions for entertainment – for many years two big cats lived in the massive Wawel Castle. in 1896 a zwierzyniec (or menagerie) in a park allowed everyone to appreciate animal life, and in 1929 an actual zoo opened on the city’s wooded hills, 10km west of the city centre. Come World War ii and many of the 200 animals were deported – just as well as the zoo was later bombed and did not reopen until the 1960s. Today it’s noted for its diverse bird population and stunning botanical gardens. www.zoo-krakow.pl Words Monika Jones

Snapshot writers highlight the best from the hub cities. For more travel inspirations at Wizz Air destinations, visit www.joobili.com

Kiev

National Opera House

Rather like the city itself, Kiev’s National Opera House is no stranger to drama. Alexey verstovsky’s opera Askold’s Grave marked the opening night in 1867, but the theatre didn’t last out the end of the century – in 1896 it burned down, a common occurrence for theatres in those days. it was rebuilt in 1901 in a Neo-Renaissance style with a sumptuous interior of velvet and bronze known as viennese modern. A decade later the imperial Russian Prime minister Pyotr Stolypin was fatally shot during an interval by a leftist radical while the Tsar looked on. Following these setbacks, the 1920s and ’30s saw the Opera House’s artists tour many east european countries and today it continues to raise the bar in the art world. www.opera.com.ua Words monika Jones

Plai Festival

10-12 September

Each September a World music festival takes place in Timisoara, a city optimistically dubbed by locals as “little Vienna”. if you’ve been to Vienna then you’ll recognise the impressive Hapsburg architecture, but otherwise the comparison is a bit of a stretch. That aside, Timisoara is a unique city well worth a visit and the Plai Festival is the perfect excuse for a trip. Plai means ‘field’ in romanian, appropriate as the festival is set in greenery on the outskirts of the city. Plai recently won the European Charlemagne youth Prize, awarded to projects that promote European and international understanding. This year’s line-up includes performances by world-class percussionist Trilok Gurtu (pictured), young jazz musician Christoph Pepe Auer and Portuguese vocalist misia. There are also workshops and art exhibitions on multiculturism and tolerance. Check out the Facebook page or visit the website. www.plai.ro Words Szabolcs Pal

Warsaw

Chopin international Music festival

1-31 Aug fryderyk Chopin is one of Poland’s most beloved native sons and the Chopin international Music festival in Warsaw is a celebration of his genius. Chopin was a child prodigy pianist and composer who made major musical innovations in the genres of instrumental Ballade, Piano Sonata, Waltz, Nocturne and more. The month-long festival presents performances, including some by the Warsaw Philharmonic orchestra (pictured), showcasing Chopin’s broad musical repertoire, along with pieces by the 19th-century contemporaries who inspired him. The festival is organised by the fryderyk Chopin institute and features daily performances usually occurring in the Warsaw Philharmonic Concert hall. http://en.chopin.nifc.pl/festival/ Words Małgorzata Kurzeja

Words & Photos Sarah Lane

Vine-covered hillsides stretch in velvet ripples as far as the eye can see, punctured here and there by a statuesque castle skirted by a tiny hilltop village – this is Langhe, an idyllic area which boasts plenty more than an enchanted landscape. Surprisingly easy to reach, it’s under an hour’s drive from the beautiful cities of turin and cuneo and the breezy, sunny months offer the perfect time to fly there.

The high density of vineyards is not without good reason – this small area is the land of Barolo, one of italy’s very best red wines. Produced with nebbiolo grapes, Barolo is often described as one of italy’s greatest wines and has a dignified, intense aroma – most definitely one to be savoured.

Among the wine’s earliest fans was the House of Savoy’s carlo Alberto, who lived in the first half of the 1800s. Having heard good reports, he repeatedly asked his friends, the marquesses of the village of Barolo, to let him try the wine they made. Juliette, the French-born marchioness, kept the king waiting awhile but then surprised him, along with the residents of turin who couldn’t believe their eyes, with a procession of 325 horse-drawn carts she’d sent from Barolo to the royal palace right in the centre of the city. each cart carried a huge barrel of wine – one for every day of the year minus the 40 days of Lent. Such was the king’s delight when he tasted the wine – named Barolo after the marchioness and her family – that he decided to make his own, buying land in the area and consulting the marquesses for precious advice.

Barolo isn’t Langhe’s only sensational wine – Barbaresco, also made using nebbiolo grapes but aged for a minimum of two years as opposed to Barolo’s three, and another called simply ‘nebbiolo’ are both highly regarded and luckily they cost a little less than the €5 upwards price tag attached to a glass of Barolo. Shamefully overlooked, the local whites are also superb, top of the list being Arneis, produced just across the river tanaro from Langhe in the sandy soil of the craggy, rocky area called roero.

After a glass or three at one of the numerous wine bars or vineyards that are open to the public, it’s a good idea to forget the car and take the opportunity to explore on foot. there’s a clearly signposted network of footpaths – Sentieri del Barolo – which wind through vineyards to link up the many picturesque villages and castles. Although some can be steep, such as Barolo to La Morra, most of the paths are easy, including Barolo to the delightful village of Monforte (around 45 minutes).

Wine plus walking usually adds up to a healthy appetite and once again you’re in for a treat – Langhe’s food pedigree is by no means inferior to its prestige in the world of wine. Alba white truffles (tuber Magnatum Pico), found by specially trained dogs in the woods of Langhe during a strictly enforced season in the autumn and winter, are considered the very best that a truffle can get and fetch prices that make your eyes water, especially at the international truffle Festival held in Alba each october.

At other times of the year two varieties of black truffle can be found and although not cheap, are more accessible and undoubtedly worth trying for a memorable taste experience.

As daniela Volpi of the cosy B&B La Giolitta

This Month

20-29 August Sagra della nocciola, cortemilia: 10 days of partying dedicated to the famous Langhe hazelnuts! 29 August Mangialonga, La Morra: take your souvenir glass along the 4km trail through vineyards with stops for fabulous food and wine on the way. info and bookings: +39 0173 500 344, www.mangialonga.it 11-12 September Festa del Vino, Barolo: Join the locals at this annual street festival for music and dancing plus the best Langhe flavours.

(www.lagiolitta.it) in Barolo’s charming centre advises, “the best way to enjoy the full flavour of truffles is with simple recipes”. tajarin con burro is a local favourite – narrow strips of fresh pasta topped with melted butter and thin shavings of truffle. truffle with eggs is another popular dish and daniela, whose father and his truffle dog sometimes come home with a special treat courtesy of the land, has her own tip for eggs and for “having your truffle and eating it”, so to speak. “if you put raw, fresh eggs, still in their shells into a tightly closed glass jar with a truffle, the natural release of the tuber’s aromatic gases will flavour the eggs whilst not consuming the truffle,” she says. Beware, however – truffles are exceptionally delicate. “they must be conserved with the utmost care and even then keep only for a week or so,” explains daniela.

Although countless myths surround truffles, there are certain unshakeable facts, one being that the tubers grow among the roots of only a small selection of trees, including various oaks and the hazelnut. the local variety of hazelnut – tonda gentile delle Langhe – is actually one of the area’s other most prestigious products. often combined with chocolate to exquisite yet once again simple recipes, the many historic cafés and confectioners prolific in Piedmont – particularly in turin, cuneo and Bra – are an Aladdin’s cave for chocoholics.

Simplicity is a byword for the cuisine of the Langhe area and the Slow Food association – founded here in 1989 – has taken the concept one step further. the Slow Food philosophy is based on upholding traditions and promoting a more natural way of life – not just in agriculture – and the movement continues to grow. there’s even a Slow Food university dedicated entirely to gastronomy. Founded in 2004, it’s housed in a former royal residence in Pollenzo in the suburbs of Bra, and there couldn’t be a better location – nowhere is the concentration of quality and flavour as intense as it is in the timeless area of Langhe.

LANGHE – THREE OF THE BEST

Castles

Barolo: An innovative museum full of weird and wonderful displays dedicated to wine inaugurates 12 September 2010.

Serralunga d’Alba: thrusting majestically into the sky, this is the most striking of the Langhe castles.

Grinzane cavour: italian statesman camillo cavour lived here. As well as the restaurant, bar and wine cellar (see below under enoteche regionali) there’s a museum on local traditions and cavour memorabilia.

Eat

Ristorante al castello (castello di Grinzane cavour, Via castello 5, +39 0173 262 172, www.castellodigrinzane.it) creative young chef Alessandro Boglione dishes up local flavours in atmospheric castle surroundings. ca’ del re (14 Via umberto i, Verduno, +39 0172 470 281) Attached to a vineyard, this is perfect for traditional food in a rustic location. Live music on thursdays in summer.

Le Ginestre (2 Via Ginestra, Monforte d’Alba, +39 0173 78684) cool off with a dip in the panoramic open-air swimming pool, then tuck into a delicious pizza, poolside.

Buy

Tartufi & Co (12 Via Pertinace, Alba, www.tartufieco.com) run by truffle hunters, attractive and tasty truffle-themed souvenirs are sold. Guided truffle hunts are also organised.

Panetteria F.lli cravero (63 Via roma, Barolo) Watch Giovanni make his famous grissini – pop next door to buy some from his sister at the shop. enoteche regionali del Piemonte: For choice and prices, the regional wine cellars are the best place to buy wine. the ones at Barolo and Grinzane are in the castles, whilst at Barbaresco it’s at a former church.

Turin – three of the best

tre Galline (37 Via Bellezia, +39 011 436 6553, www.3galline.it) one of turin’s oldest established restaurants, this is at the centre of the lively Quadrilatero romano district. the menu is seasonal and offers good Piedmont cuisine, served in a traditional environment. imbarco del re Perosino (53 Viale Virgilio, +39 011 657 362, www.ristoranteperosino.net) in a spectacular position in the Valentino park, right on the banks of the river Po, this historical building was a royal boathouse. enjoy tasty regional dishes, including plenty of freshwater fish, on the riverside terrace and stay after dinner for live music. eataly (230 Via nizza, www.eatalytorino.it) Set in a former vermouth factory, this mega-centre is a gourmet’s paradise. explore three floors dedicated to the best food from Piedmont and around the world and choose from a selection of restaurants including the excellent casa Vicina Guido (+39 011 1950 6840).

Katowice’s master of the digital artform

Words Ruth Stokes

Even if you don’t recognise his name, you’ll probably be familiar with Valp’s artwork. characterised by bright colours and a vibrant energy, the creations of the self-styled ‘Graphic illusionist’ are unlike anything his contemporaries are doing – and have featured on websites, album covers, tV adverts and even London buses.

His work ranges from high-profile international campaigns to smaller, local commissions, and he counts Warner Music UK, Warner Brothers, Kraft Foods and Odeon Film Studios among his clients. in the last few years his success has gathered pace, and probably his most impressive – and best known – works are his illustration for the musical Priscilla – Queen of the desert and the stunning underwater visuals for Pendulum’s new immersion album.

Living in the largest city of Poland’s Silesia region suits Valp’s artistic tendencies down to the ground. in a place teeming with a population of around 320,000, and rich in theatres, museums and music venues, he finds himself inspired by “everything visual, mostly other art: from static to motion, ancient to contemporary”.

Valp explains that the city has a lot to offer artists like himself. “i believe Katowice has big untapped potential, and many artists can find inspiration all round the Silesian area,” he says. “there are lots of things to do and see – galleries, museums, clubs and common places are full of inspiration. i adore the modern and art nouveau architecture, the combination of regional and national culture that makes this place really unique. it also has good connections to Warsaw, Prague and Vienna – and hey, we have an airport!”

His work is a combination of photography – manipulation, retouching and matte painting – and hand-drawn effects, such as glowing bolts (streams of energy, such as from a rocket engine). depending on the project he will draw varying amounts, possibly add some vector illustrations or even scan materials to create unusual artworks.

Amazingly, considering the complexity of – and the demand for – his work, Valp is self taught. What is now his unique brand of design grew from a basic curiosity in digital art. “the beginning was simple,” he explains. “i was fascinated with technology, photography and software, so i started experimenting with every part of the digital world.”

Now 28, he has been working on and developing his passion for 15 years. Six of those years have been spent in Katowice, wandering among art nouveau tenement houses and visiting cultural shows. And his enthusiasm hasn’t waned: “i still feel the same – fascination is core for my career.”

Valp is most proud of his work for Priscilla – Queen of the desert and Pendulum’s immersion, although he has been working on various projects for Pendulum for a while.

But despite his growing reputation among big international clients, Valp is very much tied to the local culture, and has worked on the Maj Music Festival, zamek celtic Music Festival, Katowice Anomaly and the cogitatur Music club – known for hosting popular bands, dJs and cabaret shows.

When he isn’t working on a commission, one of the places he likes to visit is Spodek – a huge arena and the largest indoor venue of its kind in Poland, which has hosted the likes of elton John and the Prodigy. “it’s a unique UFO-shaped building, and great place for concerts and sports shows,” he explains.

“Head to Park Muchowiec,” he advises first-time visitors to the city. “it’s an area of forest and ponds with swans, ducks and other animals.” Alhough it’s where he goes when he needs some space, he’s usually found in the centre of the city, where he can watch the world go by. “i’m a big fan of coffee,” he confides, appropriately enough due to his artwork for carte Noire coffee’s website. “i like caffeine cafe and Gaudi cafe for their fantastic home-made cakes.”

His favourite pastime? Simply to “spend hours in the middle of this living, rushing city.” With such an enthusiasm for his surroundings, it’s really little wonder that his art is so full of life. www.valpnow.com

Leonardo da Vinci’s Lady With an Ermine

Words William Dunn

Like a two-dimensional Victoria beckham, the Mona Lisa (or La Gioconda, as the French and italians call her) is a little too famous for her own good. Each day she is confronted by a jostling horde of fans, elbowing each other aside for a better view. The Louvre is a prestigious address, but it offers no privacy for a 500-year-old lady.

It’s a pity, because for all the beauty and mystery of Leonardo da Vinci’s paintings, it’s impossible to appreciate them when you’re 50 feet away and have 100 excitable school children yelping in your ear. but you don’t have to be a museum director to get up close: in the royal Castle in Warsaw awaits another of Leonardo’s masterpieces, best known as Lady With an Ermine.

There are three surviving female portraits by Leonardo, and after a private audience, Lady With an Ermine is my favourite. She’s better looking than Lisa for a start, but she is also more interesting. While La Gioconda smiles inscrutably at us across the centuries, this painting carries a real story.

The girl in the painting is Cecilia Gallerani, an intelligent and cultured young woman who is credited with starting the world’s first salon (a gathering of artists and intellectuals). She was also the favourite mistress of Ludovico Sforza, the Duke of Milan. in around 1489 Ludovico had his court artist, Leonardo da Vinci, paint a portrait of Cecilia. She was perhaps 16 or 17 at the time, and had already borne Ludovico a child. She was not, however, marriage material – Ludovico married for political reasons two years later. Cecilia was to remain at the Duke’s castle until his wife found out, several years later, at which point she was expelled.

Knowing this, you start to wonder who Cecilia is looking at, as she stares off to the side of the picture. Like Lisa, hers is a half-smile, but it is a little bit sad – the expression of someone told to smile.

The real star of the painting is the ermine. This is no ordinary stoat. With wolfish yellow eyes and muscular shoulders, it writhes against Cecilia, pawing at her dress, pushing its way into the centre of the frame. if anyone’s stare is supposed to catch the viewer’s eye, it’s his. Ermines were a popular symbol of purity and loyalty, but this one has a double meaning: the ermine was Ludovico’s heraldic animal, his personal symbol. Did the Duke tell Leonardo to paint Cecilia with the ermine – as stamp of ownership, perhaps, or as a celebration of their having produced a son? by using the ermine – also a symbol of chastity – as a reference to the randy Ludovico, is Leonardo da Vinci enjoying a subtle joke at his master’s expense? Visit Cecilia in her home among the other wonders of the royal Castle in Warsaw, and you’ll have plenty of time to decide for yourself. www.zamek-krolewski.pl

Meet the man behind Miffy

She has her own museum, her own tV show, has appeared on stamps in Japan and Holland, and acted as official tourist ambassador for New York. She’s been on cashmere sweaters by fashion designer clements ribeiro and is currently immortalised in a field in Japan, made from 40,000 tulips!

One of Holland’s most famous exports, is a little white rabbit.

Miffy was created by dick Bruna to amuse his son during a rainy seaside holiday some 55 years ago. An illustrator and designer, Bruna was born in Utrecht where he still works today. As his stories about Miffy became more popular, he left his job in publishing and became a full time children’s book creator. turning 83 this month, he continues to work every day on new stories and Miffy merchandise.

Over 80 million books sold around the world in 50 languages confirm the children’s character and icon of simple design as a global phenomenon. Hugely popular in Japan, where Miffy receives a level of love usually reserved for the more kitsch Hello Kitty brand, Bruna’s unintentional merchandise empire is worth US $300m a year, which includes themed hotel rooms in Hong Kong, suitcases, bicycle helmets and kids’ rattles.

Miffy’s worldwide and timeless appeal lies in her simple form. “What matters is reducing everything to its essence, so that no line is redundant. that is the strength of simplicity: the art of omission” says Bruna.

With 30 books about Miffy’s adventures under his belt, each image is pared back to the smallest number of lines and features that Bruna feels necessary to convey her situations. in total he has produced over 120 books, which also relate the adventures of Miffy’s friends and family, such as Poppy Pig and Grandma and Grandpa Bunny.

“I’m a perfectionist and therefore always strive to make each drawing better than the last one,” he states.

Every image Bruna produces is hand drawn using watercolours, perhaps up to a hundred times before he is completely happy with it, then coloured in using the same block palette he started with 55 years ago.

“These simple shapes and empty space leave room for children’s imaginations,” he says.“i always imagine there is a small child sitting watching me, checking that my work is appropriate for them.”

Before Miffy was born, Bruna had worked in his family’s publishing house illustrating book jackets and posters. in the early 1960s he designed covers for Leslie charteris’ the Saint character and George Simenon’s Maigret books. His eye-catching, modish style has been commissioned by Amnesty international, World Aids day and UNiceF.

Surprisingly his world has changed relatively little over the years. Bruna still leaves his wife a drawing every day before cycling to his studio to work on new Miffy adventures every morning, and spends time every afternoon replying by hand to children’s letters. He’s often waylaid by Japanese tourists at his favourite en-route café, but he takes it all in his stride. “i have quite an exhausting day but i wouldn’t have it any other way.”

Bruna’s quest for apparent effortlessness in his style has been influenced by Matisse and Léger. As Holland’s most successful living and working artist, a museum in Utrecht was opened in 2006 dedicated to his work and to Miffy’s exciting life. dick Bruna House, opposite the centraal Museum, takes visitors through Bruna’s journey as an artist and also displays his other, equally iconic, non-rabbit based work.

At 55 years old, just like her older creator, Miffy shows no sign of slowing down. this is one rabbit with plenty of children left to entertain; a multi-generational icon whose stories and books have been passed down since the 1950s and, in contrast to a more advanced world, her lack of complication is her lifeline. Bruna describes his hand-drawn style as her “heartbeat” and with a character this healthy, Miffy might just live forever. www.miffy.com, www.dickbrunahuis.com

The polish telecoms market is leading the way

Words Steve o’rourke
Illustration christos Hannides

New handsets, ever-growing networks and an insatiable appetite for the latest in mobile communications underlines the polish telecoms market as a forerunner in the european technology sector. We’ve got all the info…

Networks at a Glance

Orange polska

www.orange.pl

Hugely popular network provider with an estimated 15 million subscribers and a european brand that is familiar across the continent. orange World is poland’s biggest multimedia Wap (Wireless application protocol) portal with a wide array of gaming content and video coverage. the company is also intent on streaming mobile tV.  

Era

www.era.pl after celebrating its 10 millionth customer with a Warsaw concert starring Van Morrison, the mobile operator arm of polska telefonia cyfrowa has claimed further success with its phenomenally popular prepaid service, tak tak. era also runs wireless internet access and multimedia services via era entertainment.  

Heyah

www.heyah.pl

Heyah has taken the youth culture market by storm, adding a million subscribers in a month after its conception in 2004. now, when combined with its sibling company era, it boasts in the region of 14 million subscribers. the system is exclusively prepaid, aggressively cheap and hugely popular.  

Polkomtel

www.plus.pl

Marketing its mobile telephony services under five brand names (plus, Simplus, Sami Swoi, iplus and Mixplus), polkomtel has successfully captured over 14 million subscribers since 2004. the company pioneered innovative gSM-technology-based services and was the first to offer MMS messaging, voice-based access to text messages (SMS), and gprS data transmission services.

HeaVenly Handsets

We lift the lid on the latest state-of-the-art handsets, identifying the cream of the crop from the six leading manufacturers.

Milestone

An ambitious handset from a veteran manufacturer, this smartphone with slideable QWerty keyboard boasts a 5-megapixel camera that specialises in lowlight conditions, a meaty 3.7-inch screen and a nippy android operating system. it’s not small – but it sure is functional. ideal for: those that believe size does matter.

Aura

the true statement of a phone becoming a fashion accessory, the aura is a luxury item made from luxury materials and expect it to carry a luxury price tag. inspired by bespoke watches, the phone is the first to boast 16 million colours, on a stunning circular display. ideal for: Fans of technology and style.

Xperia X10

With an 8.1-megapixel camera and a 1ghz processor, this high-end touch screen smartphone offers fantastic image quality for a mobile camera.the phone runs the popular android 1.6 operating system, and an upgrade to 2.1 will be available by the end of 2010. ideal for: Snap happy mobile fans.

Vivaz pro

A great multi-function smartphone handset which follows on from the original Vivaz but with the extra bonus of a full QWerty keypad for people who like to message more and that gives the unit an executive businessman look and feel. ideal for: those who like to type as well as talk on the move.

Zylo

The next generation of Walkman phones boast twitter and Facebook social networking access in addition to a decent 3.2-megapixel camera and all important 16gB capacity (with a memory card) for more music than you’ll have time to listen to. ideal for: retro music fans.

Monte

Fancy the performance and style of a high-end handset but at a fraction of the cost? take the Monte – a bold move to marry functionality with value. the touch-screen handset has all you would expect from a smartphone including gpS, Wi-Fi connectivity – touch-button access to Facebook and twitter and a 3.2-megapixel camera. the cost is less than you’d expect to pay for such a phone. ideal for: Smartphone fans with tight budgets.

Wave

The Wave’s operational system is based on Samsung’s ‘bada’ platform, which gives a vast range of powerful options. games, programs and e-books which are available in Samsung apps shop, may be downloaded directly. With a new aMoled screen, the compact body also squeezes in a 5-megapixel camera, Bluetooth 3.0, Wi-Fi and a fast 1gHz processor for Hd video quality. ideal for: Social networkers wanting Hd Video.

iPhone 4

With a polish launch rumoured for September what can iphone fans expect? the successor to the 3gS delivers video calling, a 5-megapixel camera with led flash, a new high-resolution display and an industrial design boasting a steel frame that doubles as an antenna to improve signal strength. ideal for: those looking for a great all-rounder.

N97 Mini

Boasting an improved QWerty keyboard and a larger phone memory, the n97 Mini is actually a scaled down version of its bigger brother, the n97 – but packing the same great functionality. get live news feeds from social networks, and add shortcuts to your favourite websites and friends. ideal for: Socialites who want to stay connected.