Snapshots
ALAMY
BUDAPEST (MOHACS)
11-16 February
Europe is full of pre-Lent carnival celebrations, but the origins of the Busó Winter Carnival near Budapest are purely pagan. Residents of the Hungarian village of Mohacs gather every year to participate in an ancient pagan ritual designed to scare away winter’s cold. The main attractions are the Busós themselves – men dressed in sheepskin costumes and frightening wooden masks complete with horns. They usually carry large wooden “noisemakers” or cowbells, and make quite a racket. Let’s be honest, winter is not an easy thing to scare away. At nightfall there’s always a huge bonfire in the main square. Celebrations earlier in the week are enjoyed by locals and the tourists tend to arrive for the weekend festivities. The end of the carnival is marked with the ceremonial burning of a coffin containing a Busó costume; this symbolises the melting of winter and the welcoming of spring. Daily trains depart from Budapest, taking you on the two-hour journey to Mohacs. Words by Zoltan Tarpai
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ALAMY
KRAKOW
Piwnica pod Baranami
The name of this cellar roughly translates as “The Cellar Under Rams”. I’ve never seen the rams, but Piwnica pod Baranami is one of Old Town Krakow’s more magical places. It was founded by Poland’s famous bohemian Piotr Skrzynecki (pictured, in statue form) as a meeting place for student artists. The cellar stage quickly transformed into a cabaret where prominent playwrights, singers, choreographers and songwriters could write and practise their material. It was able to survive under communism by maintaining a lighthearted approach to life’s mundane acts while keeping a safe distance from anything that smelled of politics. Today, it offers an escape from modern Kraków. Descending into the cellar, I never know if I’ll be greeted by a theatre performance, jazz band or simply a frothy beer served by the friendly bartender. It’s this element of surprise that keeps me coming back and it’s why I recommend it to all my friends. Rynek Glowny 27, www.piwnicapodbaranami.krakow.pl Words by Aleksandra Swatek
GETTY
PRAGUE
Bohemian Carnival
5-16 February
The Czech capital returns to its Bohemian roots by resurrecting its 700-year-old Carnival tradition. Historically, this celebration was the “feast” before the “famine” of Catholic Lent – a period when believers go without meat for 40 days (Carne-vale literally means “farewell to meat”). During Renaissance times the Prague carnival celebrations became notorious throughout Europe. There then followed a long dark age for merriment, but the carnival is now back with all the parties, parades and galas you would expect from this Bohemian capital. Expect main squares to be transformed with a flurry of masks and parades while the palaces and mansions host luxurious private parties and balls. Prague’s restaurants and art galleries join the fun by offering special carnival menus and exhibitions. Daytime activities offer plenty to keep the kids entertained as well. You can find a full programme of festivities on the Bohemian Carnival website. www.carnevale.cz Words by Petra Stankova
GETTY
POZNAN
Lake Malta
If you want to spend an active day in Poznan, there’s no better place than Lake Malta. Artificially formed in 1952 by the damming of the Cybina River, it is named after the Knights of Malta, who established a command post here in 1187. During the summer it hosts international kayak and rowing events and attracts a healthy crowd of sunbathers, but I think it is during the winter that Lake Malta offers the most fun. The adjacent ski slope and toboggan run are stand-out attractions, especially if you have young children in the family. Speaking of children, they’ll also enjoy a visit to the newly opened Poznan Zoo. I recommend travelling there on the Maltanka, a narrow-gauge steam train. My personal favourite activity? It has to be ice skating, which takes place within the massive tent installed over a section of the lake, providing skaters with a welcome refuge from the winter weather. Words by Aleksandra Swatek
WARSAW
Raster Gallery
An independent art space in a 19th-century tenement house in the centre of Warsaw, the Raster Gallery’s informal ambience is such that you feel like a private guest in the home of an art aficionado. The gallery collaborates with both Polish artists, such as Wilhelm Sasnal, Agata Bogacka, Edward Dwurnik, Zbigniew Libera and the art collective Azorro, and international artists. Most galleries are about displaying and purchasing art, but Raster is also designed to support an open community of not only visual artists but also literary and musical projects. It operates an open-door policy so feel free to drop in whenever you feel like viewing emerging artists, engaging in a literary discussion or simply soaking up the creative vibes. ul. Hoza 42, www.raster.art.pl Words by Aleksandra Swatek
