Barcelona
TAPAS TALES
Mission: We challenge Xav Judd to dine on nothing but the strangest and most delicious tapas he can find in a 12-hour tour of Barcelona
Tapas, as you probably know, is the wide range of hot or cold appetisers or bite-sized snacks rustled up in Spanish cuisine. The origins of the word derives from tapar, which means “to cover”. Indeed, according to one legend, during the 16th century, tavern owners in Castilla-La Mancha realised that they could hide or “cover” the flavour of stale wine by using tidbits of strong cheeses. Therefore, it became customary to serve the two together. And the name stuck.
Although tapas have more traditionally been relished in Andalucía and northern Spain, recently the Catalonians have also fallen for the scrumptious morsels. No surprise, then, that my palate wants to find out why.
Time: Midday What: RAZOR CLAMS Where: Pinotxo bar (La Boquería, Las Ramblas 89)
Conveniently, Pinotxo (Pinocchio) is located within the famous La Boquería market. All its produce is sourced each morning from the food vendors there, tasting so fresh it might have walked right onto my plate. That is, were it not for the fact that I have razor clams; not the most agile of beasties when out of the water. Cooked à la plancha (grilled on a metal plate) then smeared with a smidgen of olive oil, I can’t wait to continue my quest of tapping into tapas.
Time: 10.45 What: TRIPE Where: El Jabalí (Ronda Sant Pau 15)
Of course, I kick off my culinary feast in at the deep end… or should I say the saggy middle, as the stomach’s the part of the pig where tripe comes from. I’m used to sinking my jowls into the odd bacon buttie, nonetheless this is obviously going to be a completely different experience. Perhaps trite to say, but it’s genuinely rather delicious, especially being presented in a lush, tangy tomato-based sauce.
Time: 13.45 What: LAMB’S BRAINS Where: Casa Delfín (Passeig del Born 36)
I’m now in the Born neighbourhood, with its whirl of swanky boutiques, watering-holes and restaurants.
In this particular one, I am confronted by what could be a scene from The Godfather. Alright, I exaggerate, there isn’t a horse’s head next to me on a pillow, but there are some lamb’s brains splashed into my bowl. Albeit in a nice, crispy batter. I overcome my fear and dive in just as the owner, Kate, mentions that “they are really chewy, gelatinous and a bit of an acquired taste.” I see what she means!
Time: 15.30 What: SQUID IN INK CROQUETTES Where: Bar del Pla (C/Montcada 2)
Just the very idea of this next recipe seems as surreal as the Gaudí architecture that enlivens this mesmerising city. In fact, in ancient times the ink shot out by squid as a defence mechanism was actually used to write with. I think of using some to draw a cement mixer, because the weird concoction of finger food, wine and beer in my belly is making it feel like one. Incidentally, as my mummy always told me to eat my greens to make my hair grow, I also opt for a wonderful Russian salad. You can see from my byline picture on the next page just how well this strategy has worked over the years.
Time:19.00 What: ANCHOVY AND RED PEPPER MONTADITOS Where: Quimet y Quimet (C/Poeta Cabanyes 25)
This might just be my favourite venue, as it’s a quaint, classic place in the leafy Poble Sec district. It’s also tiny, so straight away I notice that there are more bottles and tins stacked up on the shelves (pictured below left) than you’d find in your average supermarket. This is no coincidence, because here they specialise in conservas (shellfish preserved in cans). Nevertheless, I plump for some tantalising anchovy and red pepper montaditos. As I get stuck in, Señor Quim, whose family have run this establishment for generations, reveals: “We even make our own beer, which is the finest in Catalonia.” After drinking a bottle, I wouldn’t disagree.
Time: 20.15 What: MALLORCAN SOBRASADA SAUSAGE OMELETTE Where: Taller de Tapas (L’Argenteria 51)
While it’s usual for most Spaniards to have lunch around 2pm and dinner might start after 10 in the evening, I’ve already been munching away for several hours. But I’m not ready to throw in the towel just yet, which is lucky because I would have hated to miss out on Taller. It has a delightful rustic vibe, situated in a stone-walled 16th-century listed building. Like many of this vicinity’s best restaurants, one can also dine on an atmospheric outdoor terrace, but the more intense gastronomic smells draw me inside. And the sausage omelette I hog down – with meat from a porc negre (black pig) – is definitely something to savour.
Time: 22.15 What: McFOIE BURGER Where: Tapaç 24 (C/Diputació 269)
My aggravated assault on tapas is nearing an end and the mission is nearing completion. I have to say I’m pleased, having consumed so much, I’m more Obelix than Asterix the Gaul with respect to my waistline.
Yet, I still want a burger. Don’t think that I’m wimping out now and going for that beefy thing in a bap straightjacket they fling at you in McDonald’s. Mine’s a tad more unusual, as it’s made of foie gras (fattened duck or goose liver). The thing’s absolutely divine and the best possible way to finish off my Barcelona culinary extravaganza.
