Andorra
Two days on the Andorran slopes
On the border of France and Spain, Andorra is primarily known as a tax haven for the rich and occasionally famous, but we’re more interested in the country’s quality of skiing on its mountain resort
DAY ONE
Morning
It’s my first day in Andorra’s Grandvalira ski resort. I’m in Soldeu and, led by a ski school guide, I head up to the pistes above the Ahotel Piolets Park & Spa (more on the spa later). Charging down a twisting red run on a snowboard is an invigorating start to a weekend. I see one of Andorra’s 1,097 snow cannons and take advantage of its artificial snowdrift to pump my board up and into the air. The snowmaking machines keep Andorra’s 193km of slopes fresh and exciting.
This part of the resort also includes the Alpine World Cup Skiing slope that will be used in 2012, so the terrain is as testing as you want it to be. Our tour leader proves this in spectacular fashion by bumping over some moguls and firing a ski skyward. “It gets a bit lumpy here,” he laughs.
Lunch
High-altitude dining is always high priority so we head to Trattoria Pasta Che Voui (pictured right) at 2100m, with fantastic views of the El Tartar slopes. There you can watch the chefs baking their own pizzas and load up with a fine meal of carpaccio and pasta. “And it turns out that a glass of rioja makes a great skiing companion!” exclaims Alexandra from Katowice.
Afternoon
Back to Soldeu for some tax-free shopping with friends. Caves Manacor on El-Serrat Canillo stocks every kind of flavoured vodka, while another store lets you sample hundreds of kinds of cheese and salami, including some delicious Andorran goats cheese. Barrels of liquor and port line the walls. The best buy has to be the absinthe for €3.50 a litre.
Evening
After a buffet dinner at Ahotel Piolets we wander out into Soldeu for some après ski and find the T-Bar, where the atmosphere is relaxed enough to start a table-football tournament. I’m concentrating so hard on the game that it’s a surprise to turn around and see newly arrived skiers dancing on the table. It looks like the party has arrived…
DAY TWO
Morning
I pull the curtains open and golden Andorran sunlight pours out of a bluebird sky. It would be a welcome sight but my head is still slightly sore from last night’s partying so coffee is in order.
After fuelling up, it’s time to take the ski bus to the village of Grau Roig to explore Andorra’s alternative slopes. The whole area around Pas de la Casa is an ancient glacier bowl with chairlifts soaring up into wide, open areas with very few trees. I’m soon hammering down fast slopes with big turns and lots of room to manoeuvre. “It’s like being on a motorway – you can cruise or you can speed!” says local skier Eduardo.
The highlight comes as you drop down into Pas de las Casa and veer off the blue run to my right where an empty, ungroomed piste allows me to carve some turns and throw up some powder.
I’m having so much fun that I only stop for hot chocolate and freshly squeezed orange juice at Gras Roig’s Llac de Pessons, which resembles an cosy old Pyrenean mountain hut on the inside and is great place to warm up your feet.
Afternoon and Evening
The morning’s blazing sunshine has faded and the temperature is dropping so it’s time to head back to Soldeu and my booking at the Sport Hotel and Spa. Walking from the changing rooms my jaw drops as I see the three-level spa with its plunge pools, saunas and treatment rooms. The spa surprise is complete as I wade through an arch in the wall of the heated pool and find myself outside with the stars shining overhead and steam rising from the water like a volcanic pool. Then a long aromatic sauna and an ice bath soothe my aching muscles for the perfect end to an adrenaline-packed day.
Andorra delivers in style; it’s only a short haul from Barcelona Airport and you can cram in some superb ski conditions with just the right amount of R ’n’ R. I think it’s time for another glass of rioja…
Fly into Barcelona. For more on Andorra, visit www.andorra.ad. Visit www.infoski.pl for more Wizz Air ski destinations.
