Venetian gondoliers
Words and photos Sarah Lane
"Venice is in my heart, it’s in my soul – I adore everything about this city!" So says Daniele Morasco, one of Venice’s 400 or so professional gondoliers. He is passionate about the City of Water and adores his job: "Gliding through the canals on a gondola, particularly at dusk or when the winter mists are up, when noises are muffled and there are fewer people around, it’s just so romantic and magical. There really is no better way to experience the city."
Daniele, who inherited his vessel from his father, is the latest in a continuous line of gondoliers that stretches back around 400 years. There are several other long-standing gondolier families, including the Memos – Andrea Memo works alongside Daniele from the gondola station near the luxurious Hotel Bauer in Campo San Moise. Andrea currently shares his profession with his father, Amedeo, and his three brothers.
While being a native isn’t a requirement for acceptance by Venice’s gondolier school, a deeply ingrained passion for the city is. During the year-long course, as well as perfecting gondola techniques, trainees learn the city’s history and study languages.
One of the things Daniele loves most about his job is that he meets people from all over the world. "My English is okay, so is my German, French and Spanish – I have more trouble when it comes to Russian or Chinese, though. Still, we always manage to communicate one way or another!"
With their eye-catching stripy t-shirts and straw hats, gondoliers are very much a part of the Venetian scenery but the garb which is uniform today is relatively new. As Giuliana Longo, Venice’s last remaining artisan hat-maker, explains, the hats only came into use following a 1959 film. "Venice, the Moon and You tells the story of a young gondolier, played by Alberto Sordi, who shakes up the old traditions. He was the first to wear the straw hat and it soon caught on in real life."
While Giuliana’s speciality is the Panama hat (she picks them up in Ecuador each January) she also provides Daniele and the other gondoliers with headgear. Surprisingly sturdy and necessarily waterproof, they are in constant demand as the gondoliers give them away or lose them regularly.
Giuliana’s hat-making business is another family concern – her great-grandmother Teresa set up shop in 1901 and daughter-in-law Valentina has also joined the firm. Take a peek at the arresting window displays and at the compact chocolate-box interior when passing – it’s not far from the Rialto Bridge.
Giuliana’s contribution to gondola heritage isn’t limited to millinery, however – she’s also vice-president of El Felze, a trade association for anyone linked to gondolas, and she shares Daniele’s profound love for the city and its trademark boats. "I adore travelling by gondola! Every so often we go out in one, just for fun. I love it."
Deceptively linear when seen in movement, gondolas are in fact asymmetrical – if straight, the single oar would cause the boat to go round in circles. They are extremely complex to build, made up of over 200 parts and seven types of wood. In the past, numerous gondola yards clustered round the central canals, but now most are larger and more industrial. Lorenzo Della Toffola, who’s run the San Trovaso yard for the past 15 years, is one of the last remaining real gondola craftsmen. With its charming alpine-style wooden buildings and row of gondolas in various states of repair, the 400 year-old yard is much photographed from the Fondamenta Nani opposite. Centuries ago, when wood was brought by river from the Dolomites, some of the woodsmen decided to stay and set themselves up as gondola makers, building houses in the style of their mountain homes.
Each gondola is made specifically for the man who’ll use it as the ideal curvature depends on his weight – drastic diets could cause problems! The traditional standard length is 11m x 1m 40cm and Lorenzo has a 200-year-old skeleton base to ensure the correct measurements.
"If I’m having trouble getting the right curve into the wood, I just pop over the bridge for a glass of local white wine at the Cantinone Gia Schiavi (Dorsoduro 992, Fondamenta Nani, +39 041 523 0034). After that the curves come more naturally!" grins Lorenzo, referring to one of Venice’s oldest bacari where wine and cicheti – tasty bite-size snacks such as creamed cod crostini – are sold. "When a gondola is ready, the gondolier comes to try it out and we have a bit of a party."
Much of the yard’s work nowadays is maintenance, however. "I’ll take my gondola to Lorenzo for upkeep every few months and it needs painting annually," points out Daniele, explaining why they always look so elegant. "It’s important for our gondolas to be in perfect condition and for us to look good as we represent our beautiful city and a gondola ride will be the highlight of most people’s holidays here."
GUIDED BY GONDOLIERS
"The Rialto Bridge area is one the most vibrant and picturesque parts of Venice. I often go for a drink at Bancogiro (San Polo 122, Campo San Giacometto, +39 041 523 2061) or one of the bars that look over the Grand Canal there with some of my fellow gondoliers after work."
Daniele Morasco, gondolier
"I was a gondolier for a time, but it wasn’t for me. I’ve always preferred creating things and getting my hands dirty. My brother Checco loves it though. He works from the Molo San Marco gondola station (Dorsoduro 1097, Squero San Trovaso, +39 041 522 9146, www.squerosantrovaso.com), one of the most prestigious."
Lorenzo Della Toffola, gondola craftsman
"We aren’t obliged to dress up at Carnival time (6-16 February 2010) but some gondoliers do. I sometimes put on a wig just to get into the spirit of things! The costume Regata delle Befane on 6 January is good fun too, but we gondoliers aren’t involved."
Daniele Morasco, gondolier
"My favourite dish is baked fish, any variety as long as it’s fresh – you can’t go wrong with fresh fish. I often eat at Al Mascaron (Calle Lunga 5225, Santa Maria Formosa, +39 041 522 5995) run by my friend Gigi. It’s a really rustic and traditionally Venetian place."
Lorenzo Della Toffola, gondola craftsman
"I recommend booking a table at Alla Vedova (Calle del Pistor 3912, +39 041 528 5324) – it’s really popular among Venetians and gets busy. Antica Carbonera (Calle Bembo 4648, +39 041 522 5479, www.anticacarbonera.it) near my shop is very good too, but wherever you eat don’t miss the local sardine speciality, sarde in saor – delicious!"
Giuliana Longo, gondolier hat-maker
INSIDER TIP
For a quick fix of Venice at water level, hop onto one of the traghetti or ferries that cross the Grand Canal at various points. Similar to gondolas but wider and with a crew of two they’re cheap, good fun and also practical as there’s a definite shortage of bridges over the canal.
"I love the buzz at the Rialto Bridge fish and fruit and veg markets – this is where Venice’s best restaurants stock up. Come early in the morning to see the freshest produce and join the locals for the first spritz or glass of wine of the day, at the tiny Bar Al Merca down at Campo Bella Vienna 213."
WIZZ writer Sarah Lane
