Wine-d up
People used to laugh when they heard the words “German” and “wine” in the same sentence. Not anymore
Writer: Alfred Kueppers
Young woman´s milk. Blue Nun. German wine. Just reading it makes you smirk, doesn´t it?
But German wine has had enough. At home it can hold its head high. It´s a bon viveur in the warm Rhineland sunshine. But internationally it lives in shame. You almost pity the German vintners.
Coming out of the shadows
No matter how many award-winning wines they ferment in cellars beneath their charming riverside towns, they still can´t seem to escape the formidable shadows cast by Liebfraumilch (German for “young woman´s milk”) and Blue Nun, by their French neighbours´ wines and, to make matters worse, by their sibling brewers – who have spent millions convincing the world that the only thing Germans pour into a glass is beer. But the days when Germany´s only contribution to the international wine scene was the sort of sweet after-dinner tipple that your grandparents drink are long gone. German Rieslings and Pinot blancs (Weissburgunder) are up-and-coming and critics are taking notice. In a recent edition of his bestselling guide, Hugh Johnson advises: “Make a vow to drink a fine German wine once a month (at least). It will change your perception of purity and finesse (and make most Chardonnays taste gross).”
First stop: Frankfurt
Go to Frankfurt to see what the fuss is all about. The city is less than an hour from the Rheingau, one of the nation´s top wine-growing regions. Car and train are the fastest ways to reach the area, but you can also cruise the Main River to Mainz, where it intersects with the Rhine and flows straight into wine country.
For many, the first stop is Eltville, a village of half-timbered houses beneath a ruined castle. Among its many vineyards is the von Simmern Estate. With a cavernous cellar and its own park, it is a heavenly setting for wine tastings from early summer until late autumn.
The Eberbach monastery is another highlight along the Rhine. Though the monks cleared out of this monastery more than two centuries ago, the wine tradition continues and the estate now includes 28 luxury hotel rooms. Sean
Connery stayed here in the 1980s when he filmed his comeback film, The Name of the Rose. Seventeen kilometres from Eltville is R
